An Octogenarian Cruise 2022
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| Kemer Marina yard |
It was wonderful to find ourselves back in Kemer, Turkey on the 10th April 2022 to relaunch Song of the Ocean and return to a normal sailing season. However, before launching into this, perhaps I should make mention of c2021 when Turkey re-opened its borders to tourists. On launching SotO at the beginning of July, we found that our twelve 2 volt batteries had died. Worse still, it took a whole month to replace them as they had to come from China via Portugal which in view of the pandemic, I presume was only to be expected.
Be that as it may, we weren’t able to slip our lines until first week August which in the height of the Summer season with temperatures of 40-44o celsius and 90% humidity plus every Turk who could afford a vessel putting to sea as a result of the pandemic, was far from pleasant. Why anybody goes on holiday to Turkey in August has always been beyond my comprehension. However, we had no alternative and duly slipped our lines for Cold Water Bay, Kekova. A pleasant enough sail in15kts of SW wind, however on our arrival we were confronted by an armada of anchored yachts which made anchoring exceedingly challenging.
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Unfortunately, we were not permitted into Greece due to Covid and to a lesser extent, their political issues with Turkey. Although tiresome, this didn’t overly concern us as our main objective was to call upon Silver Marine, Marmaris to measure our rig with a view to replacing it the following year. We weighed anchor first light next morning, to sail to Round Bay, Gocek which placed us just another day's sail from Marmaris. Once again the anchorage proved a major challenge but not half as much as on our phoning Silver Marine next morning to reconfirm our appointment, we found that their team was away in Didim for a couple of weeks re-rigging a super yacht. This left us so exasperated that what with the intolerable heat plus the fight to find available anchorages, we decided to call it "a day" and return to Kemer to lay SotO up and fly to Aspen CO where we remained until February 2022. Otherwise, as the UK had Turkey on the red list, we would have been consigned to a Government quarantine hotel two weeks !
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As the saying goes, if at first you don’t succeed…..! As a result, we deferred the exercise until the following season when we slipped our lines in Kemer 'ship shape and Bristol fashion’ on the 27th April 2022, for the 47M sail out of Antalya Bay across Finike Bay for Cold Water Bay, Kekova. Following day we weighed anchor at 0600 for a run down to Kastilorizon followed by a reach up to the Seven Capes and onwards into Fethiye Bay for Gocek, a passage of 60M. Being early season, we relaxed in a virtually empty anchorage with the sun’s rays highlighting the surrounding snow capped mountains.
However, we needed to begin the long process of remodelling and renewing some of SotO’s equipment. In this respect we made for Kumlubuek anchorage outside Marmaris Bay which is thought to be the place of President Erdogan’s Summer retreat. It proved an extremely unpleasant sail with sand ladened rain in 25-35kts NW/SW winds. As a result, we were pleased to consign this 35M sail to history ! I have never experienced anything quite like it with the wind fluctuating from NW to SW. One moment it was bowling down the mountains next it was driving in from the sea, concluding with a 35kts line squall followed by a flat calm! Next morning, we motored the 6M to Yacht Marina to begin the work involving the servicing of all our hydraulics, windless, fitting a new mainsail plus replacing the bimini & cockpit spray hoods and of course, the measuring of the rigging ! Unfortunately, our replacement Chart Plotters had become delayed in delivery which meant our having to return for them at the end of the month.
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| Datca |
We slipped our lines on the 17th May for a reach down the Bozburun Peninsular to make N past Symi to complete the 46M to anchor off Datca which is one of our favourite Turkish anchorages. However, as we were intent on testing the new mainsail and other recently acquired equipment before heading across the Aegean sea, we set sail next morning over 22M up the Datca Peninsular for the anchorage of Bukue which lays across the estuary from Marti Marina. It is a quiet and beautiful bay with stunning scenery.
Bukue anchorage at top of Datca Peninsular
Two days later we weighed anchor for a beat back to Datca before continuing down the peninsular next day, to round Knidos and make for the NE peninsular of Kos. Here the sheets were tightened and a reef taken into the mainsail and jibs on a 25-30kts close haul for Akyarlar's north bay on the Bodrum Peninsular to complete the 40M run for the day. Following morning we reversed our tracks with a reach to Kos whereupon we lost the wind and motored down to Knidos. However, once around the peninsular headland we picked up a 25kts following wind for a Simbo Rig run back to Datca.
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| Bukue anchorage at top of Datca Peninsular |
As we were now approaching the end of the month, we weighed anchor on 24th May to make for the Bozburun Peninsular followed by a Simbo Rig run up to Kumlubuek and then onwards to Yacht Marina two days later. Turimtek the Raymarine agents, duly set about removing our existing Chart Plotters and installed new wiring for the new Plotters which were due to arrive on the 1st June. In the meantime we took the opportunity to send our outboard away for servicing. North Sails also fitted new covers to protect the backstay and main boom-vang hydraulics.
On the 1st June, we set sail for Rhodes in Greece where we had not been permitted since c2019. In celebration of the occasion we were treated with a NW4 reach under full sail over the 25M to the marina where we were efficiently checked in by Michalis of Rhoditis Marine. We enjoyed a couple of days in the beautiful historic town with its ancient castle before slipping our lines on the 3rd June over the 43M to anchor off the attractive island of Tilos. However, we were due to meet up with our good friends Ian & Judy Jenkins OCC, in the Peloponnese with whom we sailed in company across the Atlantic in c2002 on our N460, Song of the Sea. As a result, we weighed anchor next morning for Astipalia in a brisk 20kts. This later increased to 25kts when on reefing the mainsail, the main outhaul parted to leave us to sail the last 20 of the 53M passage with just the headsails. This was an unpleasant experience and as a result we will make a point of replacing the mainsail outhaul, every 4 years in future. There is no doubt that the outhaul is the most vulnerable aspect of the in-mast furling mainsail which is otherwise an excellent option for short handed crew.
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| Furled parted outhaul & attached replacement |
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| Furled parted outhaul and rigged replacement (mainsail hoisted in the calm of Ios anchorage for the photos) |
As things turned out, this incident put paid to any thoughts of staying over in Astipalia and left us with no alternative but to make for Paros to acquire a new outhaul. Fortunately though, we had long since rigged a stand-by outhaul to meet such an eventuality. As a result and for the first time, we were able to weigh anchor for the 55M with the replacement outhaul in a N/NE which led to a reach and subsequent run under Simbo Rig under full sail. You may only have need for a spare outhaul once but when that occasion arises you will consider it a “God send”! In fact on arrival at Ormos Tris Klises anchorage on the W. coast of IOS, we were sorry that we hadn’t made directly for Paros; even more so when we had to motor next day through lack of wind, over much of the 27M to Paros. On a brighter note, there was no difficulty in our acquiring a German manufactured new replacement outhaul.
After 4 days R&R in what is one if not our favourite Greek island, we set full sail for the 30M passage to Ormis Kapari anchorage in Siros followed next day, by a 32M sail to Apocrios in Kythnos. We had always found this to be a peaceful anchorage and were therefore aghast that evening, to be inundated by a fleet of charter boats most of which displayed little or no sailing experience and cared even less! Rather like Croatia, the yacht charter industry has been encouraged in Greece to the point where sailing on the west coast of the Aegean is not what it used to be. However, the Charter Companies in recognition I suspect, of may of their customers inexperience do seem to restrict them to the Peloponnese coast and its immediate off-lying islands.
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We weighed anchor at 0630 for Ormis Kapari, Ermioni; a sail of 55M under reefed mainsail and jib in a fresh N/NW 4-6. This is a remote anchorage as a result of it being a mile S of the town which provided a great location to meet Ian & Judy Jenkins with their Amel 50, Pen Azen on which they had circumnavigated South America. In fact, so much did they enjoy their experience that on completion, they then sailed back to Cape Horn!
After 3 days with our friends during which we enjoyed day trips to Ermioni for shopping and coffee shops, we weighed anchor on the 16th June for Poros with another N/NE 4-6 on a closehaul under reefed mainsail and jib down the 20M estuary to then round-up for the southern entrance of Poros. Here, one has to be particularly vigilant due to outbound traffic, stern-to anchored charter boats on the Poros harbour quay and ferry traffic crossing from the nearby town of Galatas. Once in though, there is a plethora of anchorages to safely leave ones yacht whilst visiting the vibrant town with its coffee shops, bars, restaurants and wide range of stores.
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| Portocheli |
We weighed anchor on the 18th June to sail over the 30M for Portocheli to meet up with Pen Azen again; this is another popular anchorage in an enclosed bay with good shoreside facilities. However after a couple of days we bade our fair wells to Ian & Judy to set sail on the start of our return to Turkey. We were confronted with a brisk NW4/6 over the 65M to Ormis Livadiou, Serifos to anchor in this well sheltered bay with its shoreside town. A memorable day's sailing with a reach to within 20M of Serifos leading onto a Simbo Rig run and then close haul around the south of the island to our destination. Following a day ashore, we set sail over the 34M in a NW4 on a close haul back to Paros. Here we together with a fleet of yachts, sought shelter from the forecasted gale force winds of up to 39kts. On the back of this and so as not to loose the aftermath of the wind, we set sail in a NW4/6 over the 72M for Ormis Grikoi, Patmos. Another excellent sail until we approached the coast of Patmos to find ourselves weaving through a plethora of merchant ships seemingly making for the Bosphorus. All very reminiscent of my years long since passed, crossing the English Channel !
Following morning on the 26th June, we were abruptly awakened by the Greek navy who required our anchorage for which there was barely space for us let alone a large naval vessel. Very begrudgingly, we weighed anchor to set sail over the 34M with a gentle NW3/4 and calm seas for Samos where we took a berth at the marina. Previously, we had anchored in the outer harbour but this had now been debarred, apparently to stop Turkish sailors anchoring the night without checking-in. The problem as far as we were concerned is that this sort of ruling gives the local authorities a power complex which can make them unreasonable and offhanded when dealing with law abiding yachties ! However, first the aggro or should I say pain and then the gain. Samos is a delightful town with very welcoming restaurants and shops which appreciate our business and welcome us with open arms.
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| Simbo Rig |
After 3 days of revelling in the hospitality of Samos, we set sail on the 30th June over the 32M for Didim to check into Turkey. A pleasant days run under Simbo Rig in a N/NW 4 and following seas; just perfect ! Having expedited the formalities, we then proceeded 15M further east into the tranquility and bliss of Kumerik Buku inland seaway for two days before sailing south to Akyarlar's north bay on the Bodrum Peninsular. Another 28M run under Simbo Rig with a continuing N 3/4 increasing to 5 around the peninsular. Next day we set sail with a NW5 reach to make round Kos island, only to be met by the usual wind shadow down to Knidos peninsular under motor before finally running up under Simbo Rig in 20kts to our Datca anchorage, on completion of the 40M passage.
Following morning on the 5th July, we sailed for the Bozburun Peninsular on a NW/W 4/5 reach to then bear away on a Simbo Rig run up to Marmaris to anchor in the tranquil bay of Kumlubuek on completion of the 41M passage on another memorable day’s sailing. In the morning, we weighed anchor for a continuing Simbo Rig run down the 43M for Round Bay, Gocek concluding with a reach into Fethiye Bay up the final 20M. Following day, we set sail over the 42M for Kos Marina under Simbo Rig with a N4 and following seas. Kas is another favoured port of call which in different circumstances, we may well have laid-up SotO for the winter. It provides first class facilities both at the marina and in the very attractive town with its historic Greek architecture.
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| The result of the Simbo Rig from astern |
After two days R&R, we slipped our lines for the 27M passage to Cold Water Bay, Kekova under Simbo Rig past Kastilorizon and on into Finike Bay for a reach to our overnight anchorage. This then left us with a 35M passage across Finike Bay next day with a SW3 reach for Antalya Bay followed by a 10M run under Simbo Rig up to Cavus Bay to prepare ourselves for the final 20M back to Kemer and the start of a fortnight's hard labour laying SotO up for the winter. Our cruise for the season totalled 1,260M. It has to be said though that our newly acquired Chart Plotters developed an irritating problem in so far as they regularly lost their signal. We have lodged the matter with Turimpek in Marmaris under the Raymarine guarantee which we trust will be satisfactorily resolved on our return to Marmaris next season.
